Smoke Signals - Pimentón-It's Not Your Mama's Paprika

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When I was growing up we used paprika in one of two ways: as a garnish on potato salad or deviled eggs, and in Chicken Paprikash (because of my Hungarian ancestry). Beyond that, paprika simply sat in the spice rack. I suppose that’s the way most of you think of paprika too. It's kind of just for color. Well, no more!

When I was in culinary school I had an epiphany. I was studying Spanish food and discovered smoked paprika, called pimentón. What an exciting discovery. It changed the way I think about paprika forever.

Spanish pimenton comes in three styles: dulce (literally meaning sweet, but more accurately mild), agrodulce (bittersweet or slightly spicy) and picante (spicy hot). The flavor is amazing. There's a depth to it - layers of smoky, dusty, peppery flavors - and depending on the style, heat and spice.

The best pimentón comes from an area called La Vera valley in Spain. It’s not so much the growing of the peppers in La Vera but what they do at harvest that makes it the best. In the fall, pepper varieties are hand-picked and smoked in small smokehouses near the fields. The smokehouses are simple structures with concrete floors. Wooden grates are suspended several feet above the floors over smoldering oaks fires. The peppers are dried over the smoke for 10 to 15 days. The smoking process imparts a deep, rich, smoky aroma that you don’t get from typical grocery-store brand paprika.

Pimentón is a staple of Spanish cooking. It's used in sausages, papas bravas (spicy, fried potatoes), garlic shrimp and other tapas dishes, as well as stews, Paella, and sauces.

I've been experimenting with it lately. My preference is pimentón picante because I like the kick, and used sparingly I don't think you'll find it bites you. I've mixed it into guacamole. Tossed it with mixed nuts. Stirred it into lentil soup. Rubbed in on roasts and barbequed ribs. Coated fish fillets for frying. And, (my grandmother will roll over in her grave) I've used it in place of Hungarian paprika in Chicken Paprikash!

You can find pimentón at specialty grocers or online. Try to purchase pimentón de la Vera to ensure you're getting good quality and flavor. Go ahead give it a try. You'll never think of paprika the same way again.

Have you ever tried pimentón? How do you use it? Do you have any recommendations?

What Luck! Potatoes Colcannon for St. Patrick's Day

St Patrick’s Day is just around the corner. Americans of all ethnicities embrace their inner leprechauns by wearing green and raising a pint to celebrate. Many partake in the ubiquitous Irish-American tradition of eating corned beef and cabbage, as well. But do we really like it? Good corned beef? Yes! But tasteless, cottony potatoes and wilted cabbage? Probably not. (Although, the starch might keep the ghoulies at bay after too much green beer.)

Admittedly, potatoes and cabbage have been sustenance foods in Ireland for ages. I’m not knocking that, but they don’t have to be bland and boring! I suggest you shake up your menu and try a flavorful, classic Irish side dish – Potatoes Colcannon.

Colcannon, Irish for “white-headed cabbage,” consists mainly of mashed potatoes with kale or cabbage though there are many variations. It’s commonly served on St. Patrick’s Day and Halloween but once you’ve tried it, you’ll want to serve it year-round. It’s terrific with grilled sausages, roasted pork and ham.

Potatoes Colcannon

Serves 8

Ingredients:
2 lbs (about 6) russet potatoes, peeled and quartered
8 tbsp (1 stick) butter, cut into small cubes
1/2 cup milk or cream
1 onion, finely chopped
3 cups coarsely chopped green cabbage or kale*
1/8 tsp grated nutmeg
salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

Directions:
Put the potatoes in a large pot, add water to cover the potatoes by 2 inches and generously salt the water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat and cook until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a knife, about 15 minutes.

While potatoes are cooking melt 2 tbsp of the butter in a heavy pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the cabbage and toss until tender-crisp, about 8 minutes. (If you are substituting kale for the cabbage, cook it a little longer to ensure that it’s tender – about 15 minutes.) Sprinkle with nutmeg and season with salt and pepper.

Drain the tender-cooked potatoes, return them to the pot and mash well. Add theremaining 6 tbsp of butter, allow to melt, and stir to combine. Slowly stir in milk. Season with salt and pepper. Fold the potatoes into the cabbage mixture and serve warm.

*You can substitute 1 bunch curly kale (about 3/4 lb), stemmed and coarsely chopped


An Irish Blessing: May you have warm words on a cold evening, a full moon on a dark night, and the road downhill all the way to your door. Happy St. Patrick’s Day!

What do you serve on St. Patrick’s Day? Are there any traditional dishes you’d like to share?

Baked Apple Pudding

I was in the mood for baked apples the other day but didn't have any walnuts and raisins to stuff the center with. Instead, I came up with this recipe for baked apple pudding based on a traditional Danish dessert and some ancient Quaker puddings from my great grandmother. 

Most of us only think of pudding from a box but this is a simple, old fashioned, baked fruit dessert. I've added arrowroot powder to thicken the pudding so it's gluten free and grain free.  It's a perfect mid-winter treat!
My husband can't get enough of it. Enjoy!

Baked Apple Pudding

Serves 6 to 8

4 granny smith apples

2 tbsp sugar

1 tbsp arrowroot powder

1 tsp cinnamon

4 tbsp softened butter plus additional for pie plate

¼ c sugar

½ c ground almonds

1 egg

Preheat oven to 350F.

Generously butter a ceramic pie plate. Peel, core and dice apples. In a medium mixing bowl, combine diced apples, 2 tbsp sugar, arrowroot powder and cinnamon. Toss to coat the apples. Pour apples into prepared pie plate, cover with aluminum foil and bake 45 minutes.

While the apples are baking, cream together butter, ¼ c sugar and ground almonds. Beat egg, and stir into almond mixture until thoroughly combined. Set aside.

Remove the baked apples from the oven. Remove foil and cover with almond mixture. Return to the oven and bake an additional 30 minutes until top is golden and set.

Serve warm or cold with ice cream or whipped cream.

The World is Your Oyster! Let's Make Stew

Also available on SheSpeaks

As this winter drags on, I don't know about you but I could use a little comfort. I take mine in the form of a soul-warming soup. There's nothing like a full belly to fortify me against another grey day. One of my favorites is Oyster Stew. It's quick, easy, and guaranteed to ward off a chill.

Oyster Stew

Serves 4 to 6

Ingredients:
2 pints small to medium shucked oysters
8 strips of bacon
4 tbsp butter
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 medium onion, diced
1 pint heavy cream
4 c milk
2 tsp salt
1 tsp pepper
1/2 tsp dried basil
pinch of thyme
sliced green onions (optional)

Directions:
Heat a pot of salted water. Blanch oysters for 2 – 3 minutes. Drain and cut into bite-sized pieces.

Using kitchen shears, snip bacon into small pieces. Cook bacon slowly in a large pot over medium low heat. When the bacon starts to crisp, add butter and melt. Increase heat to medium and add diced onion. Sauté until soft and translucent. Add garlic and cook 1 minute longer. Add oysters, heavy cream, milk, salt, pepper, basil and thyme. Stir until warm (do not boil). Garnish with green onions.

What is your favorite cold weather soup or stew?

Come on Baby, Light My Fire! Pineapple Flambé

When selecting a fresh pineapple, the best tool is your nose. If the pineapple smells like pineapple it's ripe. Remember though, cold mutes scent so if you're choosing a pineapple from a refrigerated case it may be more difficult to tell. Other clues in ripeness are fresh-looking, deep green leaves and brightly colored skin. In addition, your pineapple should feel plump and heavy for its size and should give slightly when you squeeze it.

Pineapple Flambé

Makes 2 to 4 desserts

2 Tbsp butter
4 1/2" thick slices of fresh pineapple
2 Tbsp brown sugar
1/2 tsp ground allspice
a pinch of ground cloves
1/2 cup coconut or spiced rum
4 scoops vanilla ice cream
4 Tbps chopped macadamia nuts
4 slices of pound cake (optional, see note)

Melt butter over medium heat in a large skillet. Add pineapple slices and cook for 5 minutes. When the pineapple has started to soften and begun to brown, turn over the slices and continue to cook for an additional 5 minutes. Add the brown sugar, allspice and cloves. Stir until the sugar has dissolved. Remove the pineapple to serving plates.

Stir in the rum. (If you are using a gas stove, move pan off heat to add the rum so it doesn't flare up before you are ready.) Continue to cook the sauce until the rum is hot, then tip the pan slightly to ignite the rum using a long lighter or the flame from the gas burner. Be careful because the flame will shoot above the rim of the pan. When the flames subside, spoon the warm sauce over the pineapple. (If the sauce seems too thin, cook for another couple minutes until it is syrupy in consistency.) Top each pineapple slice with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and chopped macadamia nut. Serve immediately.

Note: A friend of mine said she'd like a way to sop up all the delicious rum sauce. If you are so inclined, serve some sliced pound cake on the side for the extra rum sauce.

Wilted Beet Greens with Bacon and Garlic

I love beets. My husband and I often buy them. Both my local green grocer and farmers market sell beets with the tops on. I imagine that many people just lop off the stems and throw them away. The fact is that beets are a member of the chard family and their greens can be used almost interchangeably in both Swiss Chard and Spinach recipes.  I sometimes chop them up and add them to lentil or white bean soups.

While rummaging around in the refrigerator for something to eat for lunch, I came across a bunch in the bottom of my crisper drawer that I had intended to use for soup but got waylaid by chili instead.  I also found an open packet of bacon, some garlic, and "voila," a recipe was born!

I was tempted to throw some goat cheese crumbles on the top (which I still think would be good) but instead enjoyed the dish plain. The wilted greens were tender but retained a slight chewy crunch.  Couple that with bacon-y, smokey goodness and a hint of garlic - mmm...

This hearty, vitamin-rich side dish would be good with almost any roasted meat. Though, on its own, it made perfect winter's day lunch.

Wilted Beet Greens with Bacon and Garlic
Serves 2 to 4

2 bunches of beet greens (approximately 6 to 8 beets worth)
4 strips bacon
1 clove of garlic, crushed
2 tbsp chicken stock or water
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Strip the beet greens from the stems and discard. Tear the greens into bite-sized pieces. Wash in cold water and spin or pat dry.

Meanwhile, place bacon in a cold frying pan. Cook over medium heat until the bacon is crisp and the fat  has been rendered. Remove bacon from the pan and drain on a paper towel.

Add crushed garlic to the bacon fat. Lightly brown the clove on each side, approximately 1 minute total. 

Stir in the beet greens and chicken stock.  Toss gently for 3 to 5 minutes until the greens have wilted and the chicken stock has evaporated. Season with a pinch of salt and some freshly ground black pepper.  Transfer to a serving dish and crumble the bacon over the top. Serve.

Mahalo Honomu Jams and Jellies

I don't usually do product endorsements but while vacationing in Hawaii I stumbled upon a yummy find - Honomu Jams and Jellies.  Honomu Jams is produced by Akana Falls Farms, a family-owned company on the Big Island. Their orchard and organic garden is located in the historical agricultural community of Honomu, on an old sugar plantation bordered by the Akaka Falls State Park. They grow a variety of fruits including heritage citrus varieties of oranges, tangerines, limes, and tropicals including mangos, papayas, passion fruit, star fruit, guavas, lychees, rambutans, and bananas.

Boasting "quality control from seed and tree to jar." They produce a number of exotic jams, jellies, and fruit butters. Everything is handmade in small batches with all natural and organically grown fruit, using no preservatives. I sampled at least a dozen products and my favorites include the Hot Passion Fruit Hawaiian Pepper Jelly, Tahitian Lime Ginger Jelly and Calamondin Jam.

The Passion Fruit Hawaiian Pepper Jelly is a tantalizing blend of sweet tang and spicy heat. Balanced and lively.  It wakes up the senses the way Thai and Indian foods do with layers of nectarious fruit and piquant sharpness. I used the Passion Fruit Hawaiian Pepper Jelly as a glaze for barbecued pork tenderloin while on the island but think it will be equally as good on chicken and chicken wings.  I also enjoy it with salty cheeses like sharp cheddar and manchego, as well as cream cheese.

The Tahitian Lime Ginger Jelly is outstanding on firm white fish like halibut, ono, and swordfish.  The delicate acidity of the lime paired with sweet, pungency of the ginger is perfect for fish, shrimp and chicken. I think it would be a great topper for citrus cheesecake too!

Calamondin is a type of orange common in the Philippines. The flavor is often described as a cross between a Mandarin orange and a kumquat, so it's more sour than sweet. The Calamondin Jam reminds me of a good orange marmalade - not too cloying and a nice citrus aroma.  Perfect on a buttery English muffin.

Here's the best part - they ship!  So, if you are looking for some delicious and unusual jams, jellies, and syrups check out Honomu Jams and Jellies! and let them know that Chef Erin sent you.  Mahalo!